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Intro: Easy Generator to Home Hook Up. A generator is a core component to many people's emergency preparedness plans. Rolec’s EV Charge Online Network Goes From Strength To Strength April 3rd 2017. Rolec EV has announced that several hundred EV charging points are already forming. Author: Simon P Barlow © 2011 Published by: Caravan Talk.

When you connect up your Caravan to a Site Mains supply you need to check the safety of your Mains installation, there are two important things you should do.

Mains hook- up: troubleshooting . Essentially, it consists of a hook- up post (or socket) by the on- site pitch, a socket in the side of your ’van, and a lead to join them together. These days, for added protection, most modern ’vans route the incoming mains through their own RCD and MCB circuit breakers.

Additionally, on many campsites, the supply is also routed through the site’s RCD and MCB breakers before it gets to the hook- up socket – these lend added protection to your vehicle’s circuits, as well as the hook- up lead itself. MCBs and RCDs. MCB stands for . Just like a fuse, MCBs sit in the live feed to prevent excessive electrical current being drawn. However, whereas excess electricity in a fuse makes a fuse wire melt, an MCB switch will trip (i. To make the circuit live again, all you have to do is flick the switch back.

On most campsites, the electrical supply’s MCB will be rated to the maximum current (in amps) that the feed can supply. Trying to draw more will trip out the supply. Although MCBs (and fuses) provide a degree of electrical protection, there are still hazardous circumstances against which MCBs cannot protect. For instance, a faulty appliance or chafed wires in your motorhome’s loom may allow some electricity to leak to earth. Provided that the leak is small, the amount of electricity being drawn through the MCB will be within its limits.

However, the leak could cause heat to build up, with the risk of fire. Worse still, it could make any metallic outer surfaces live, with the risk of electric shock.

In a healthy electrical circuit, the earth wire should be electrically dead. So, if any current is detected, the RCD immediately cuts the live and neutral feeds. Being electro- mechanical devices, RCDs can become unreliable with age. That’s why they’re equipped with a test button, which you should check regularly. The most common mains hook- up problem.

Here, we are talking about overloading. Modern ’vans have several mains sockets in them, which makes it easier than ever to build up more of an electrical demand than the hook- up can supply. For instance, the simultaneous use of a phone charger and TV can easily push the demand too high if you then also switch on a heavy appliance such as a kettle. Even your 'van's automatic leisure battery charger can draw an samp or two, so it could be worth switching it off when you're hooked up to a low- amperage supply.

Sites vary though. If you’re unlucky, the supply will be a paltry 4. A. Even at the other end of the scale, though, 1.

A is the maximum and this is only slightly more than you can wring out of a single domestic mains socket. The best way to avoid a problem is to plan ahead and familiarise yourself with the electrical needs of all the appliances you may use in your motorhome.

Prevent overload: audit your electrical demand. Electrical hook- up points are always rated in amperes, yet appliances’ electrical demands are normally expressed in watts. Fortunately, it’s  easy to convert one to the other to calculate all your appliances’ demands in amps: click here to see an easy way to do this. Another couple of units you may see are milliamperes (m. A) and kilowatts (KW). Currents of less than 1.

A are usually expressed in m. A. There are 1. 00.

A in 1. A so 5. 00m. A is actually half an amp. Similarly, a kilowatt is merely 1. Once you know the amperage needs of all the devices you’re likely to run in your ’van, total up any you plan to use simultaneously to make sure the demand is within the hook- up’s maximum supply rating. Ecu Dating here. However, also bear in mind that many devices demand a higher current for a split second when they start up. Motors such as those in fan heaters need a starting surge of nearly twice their usual current, while fluorescent lights use four or five times their usual current rating.

Problems can be avoided by switching on the highest surging product(s) first, while the current draw is still low. Hooking up safely. When connecting to a hook- up, bear in mind the following.

Never use a domestic extension lead outside – invest in an adapter that allows the domestic socket to be joined to your hook- up lead. Unravel all the cable: if it’s tightly coiled it can overheat. With the increased use of high- amperage appliances in ’vans, it is essential that the hook- up cable is allowed to cool by exposing it to the air. If you plug into the hook- up first, the semi- exposed (other) end will be live. If it trips, the lead is at fault..

Unplug the lead from the hook- up socket, re- connect it to your ’van, and then to the hook- up point. A trip at this stage indicates a wiring fault in your vehicle’s socket, or between the socket and the circuit breakers – professional assistance is required. If none of these cause problems, the fault must lie with any appliances that were plugged in at the time of the electrical trip, so avoid using them until they have been professionally checked.